SS16 倫敦時裝周:Vivienne Westwood Red Label 秀場聚焦

燈光亮起,一字排開的示威者,頭戴各色紙做的皇冠、高舉標語海報,自二樓(其實整個會場是在地下室)欄杆俯瞰秀場座位上的媒體與嘉賓。「FRACKING IS A CRIME(指英國政府以壓裂法開採資源造成環境破壞)」、「TTIP IS A CRIME(指美國與歐盟主導的跨大西洋貿易及投資夥伴協議)」,醒目的標語直接點出 Vivienne Westwood 對近期社會議題的關注。

燈光亮起,一字排開的示威者,頭戴各色紙做的皇冠、高舉標語海報,自二樓(其實整個會場是在地下室)欄杆俯瞰秀場座位上的媒體與嘉賓。「FRACKING IS A CRIME(指英國政府以壓裂法開採資源造成環境破壞)」、「TTIP IS A CRIME(指美國與歐盟主導的跨大西洋貿易及投資夥伴協議)」,醒目的標語直接點出 Vivienne Westwood 對近期社會議題的關注。

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 Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

RED LABEL 每季的發表秀現場,向來與服裝設計無直接關係,是 Vivienne Westwood 的演說與遊行盛會。從環境革命再到社會政治議題,RED LABEL 延續好幾季的風格,作品裡也許並非直接反映她對世界與人道的關懷;但直接將時裝發表現場轉換為抗議行動,卻更顯她以服裝設計師立場投入社會活動的毫不猶豫。

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

早期作品裡具代表性的極端龐克風格已不復見,立體的垂墜線條、不對稱剪裁、金屬色澤面料、合身優雅的洋裝輪廓…這些設計語言已延續好幾季;褪去刻版印象裡的龐克叛逆品味,急欲挑戰你對 Vivienne Westwood 貼上的標籤。然而反骨精神依然存在,對作品設計不多贅述,正是因為服裝對她而言與她的政治立場已無法切割;與其談論設計細節,不如發揮自己在時尚產業的地位與影響力,直白地宣揚環境議題的重要。

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

就連品牌釋出的新聞稿也宛如她個人的一場小型演說。

The most important philosophical question ever asked is “what is a good life?” A good life is one which mirrors the world. That means that you understand the world through art and culture. You understand the genius of the human race and you understand yourself in relation to it. You’re like a little tiny shard of mirror glass that’s exactly a copy of the whole world. You’re very beautiful because you understand the beauty of the world and you understand the human race and you want to do your best. At this point in time it’s incredibly important, also, to be political because we face incredible danger from our politicians and we’ve got to stop them! They cause climate change and war. They cause climate change and war. The worst thing that politicians do is to pretend that nothing has changed when in fact everything has changed because the human race faces mass extinction, and we face it really soon, it could happen that by the end of this century there are only 1 billion people left. Why do the criminals (politicians) want to do that- because it enriches them, but every one of their policies is a crime against humanity. I am here to say something like a crazy person because ‘the criminals’ aren’t saying it, they’re all pretending everything’s normal but they’re the ones who are really crazy because they’re taking us to mass extinction and we have to do something.

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

龐克本是不斷挑戰強權,對身處的現況提出質疑。即使沒有所謂經典的「龐克造型」,沒有跋扈囂張的是設計氣焰,Vivienne Westwood 依然以身體力行展現了龐克文化裡的態度。當我們對服裝設計師的期待,多數只限於設計出好看、合理價格又實穿的作品時,也許用設計師本身對議題的參與、關懷角度,重新認識他們的作品,更能理解身為創作者的他們,以創作展現他們對社會的自覺與責任感。

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

也許你會發現,服裝之外,設計師所關心的,遠比單純的美感、好看與否,還要來得更為深入。

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Vivienne Westwood RED LABEL SS16
Photography/ Magda Golembiewska

Special thanks: Magda Golembiewska

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